🔗 Share this article ‘Every Culinary Artist Should Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots. Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London. A Shocking Accolade The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the family completely astonished. “I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list. The Appeal of Modesty The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner. The Star Offering: Tantuni However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality. It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside. The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together. Other Than the Basic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile. Rising Above the Giants Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations. While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure. The Ethos of Heart It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner. “In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.” The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”. A Story of Dedication Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son. Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work. “My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects. An Accomplishment for the Community This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.